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  • Writer's pictureMirjam Högnäs

Let’s cross Turkey in three weeks!

Updated: Aug 3, 2022



A trip from Bulgaria to Georgia through Turkey.


Burgas, Bulgaria

Having breakfast on our small balcony at Aparthotel Fotinov in Burgas

We started our three and a half week trip in Turkey and Georgia with a flight to Burgas in Bulgaria. The cheapest way to get to and from Turkey the summer 2022 (first Covid free summer in two years) was to fly from Stockholm through Gdańsk to Burgas, and home from Kutaisi in Georgia. Thus, we planned our trip in Turkey from the west to the east, starting from Burgas.


Burgas is a nice little town by the Black Sea coast, and while Sam had to work I spent the two days we were there by the beach (with actual black sand!), drinking coffee in small cafes and eating nice sea food. The beer was super cheap, so Burgas felt like a good place to start our vacation. Despite the local festival and crowd of tourists, we also managed to find a good and fairly cheap hotel called Aparthotel Fotinov, central and for just 45€ per night.


Enjoying some beach time by the Black Sea. And 1€ beers

In the middle of the city there is a nice walking street with nice restaurants and bars - finding delicious food every day wasn’t hard. Especially the small fried fish and mussels was a delicacy.


Mussels and sweet potato fries - and good red wine!

From Burgas we took a bus to Istanbul, that didn’t really go as planned. We ended up missing our first night bus simply because it was so delayed that we thought it would never come at all, and left the bus station just before it eventually arrived at the bus station. However, we managed to book another bus the next day, that also ended up being two hours late, but this time we managed to get on it. A good reminder that you should never count on anything being on time, or getting any information about delays, anywhere in Bulgaria.


Eventually the bus ride was fairly smooth, despite the very long and slow processing by the border, but once we came through it wasn’t a long time before we arrived in Istanbul. In total the trip took almost 7 hours.


Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul is such a vibrant city with a lot of nice colourful streets

It’s a nice feeling when you arrive in a big metropolitan city like Istanbul. Like a feeling of freedom and excitement. While we approached with the bus and saw all the buildings in the horizon, the city seemed so huge and endless.


View from one of the rooftop terraces in Taksim, Istanbul

I’d been to Istanbul once many years ago, in December. Then it was cold and rainy. This time it was a completely different vibe and the weather was perfect; warm but not too hot to walk around and explore the city.


This time we stayed at a small hostel called Chillout Lya in the vibrant Taksim district, full of bars and restaurants. We stayed in Istanbul for three days and the highlights of these days that I’d happily recommend were:


• Eating cheap (street) food (you’ll find a lot in Taksim). Everything from hot pine nuts to pastries sold on the streets, to small kebab places and local tea shops. My favourite thing turned out to be the cheese pide - a hot flatbread with molten cheese. It was especially good in the night after drinking a bit.


A picture of one of my favourite breakfasts (due to the lack of photos of street food)

• Bar hopping in Taksim. The area we stayed in is full of nice cozy bars, everything from hipster beer places to small cocktail bars. You also find a few nice rooftop terraces, our favourite was called Symbol FAL Cafe Teras Restaurant Nargile where you had a nice view all the way to the water.


Enjoying a local red IPA at Cafe Babel in Taksim

• Smoke nagile/hookah. The Turkish shisha. With endless options of nice flavours you can get a nice shisha for 150 lira (8€). It’s a nice way to chill for a while, smoke, drink and do some people watching and simply enjoy the Istanbul vibe.

Shisha on Taksim street
Beers on the rooftop Symbol FAL Cafe Teras Restaurant Nargile

• Visit Kadiköy, my favourite neighbourhood in Istanbul. This area is on the Asian side of the city, and as we were staying on the European side it was a nice way of crossing with one of the public transport boats. That way you see a bit more of the city and don’t have to be underground in the metro. The boat tickets cost the same as a metro or bus tickets.


In Kadiköy there are tons of cozy cafes and bars. One of my favourite cafes that I found seven years ago when I was Istanbul the first time is Benazio Coffee. Here you can have an amazing breakfast or lunch. They have super good sandwiches and toasts, as well as salads, smoothies, coffee, cookies…


Lunch at Benazio

• Have dinner at Babel Café Restaurant. This restaurant is located in Taksim, and have really good tapas and local beers. It’s a bit more on the pricy side but worth it for the really high quality food.


• Visit Kultur Nargile Cafe. The coziest cafe in Taksim, and their cakes are simply amazing. Make sure to try the Sansebastian cheesecake at some point when you’re in Istanbul, it’s delicious. But the best one we ate was here at Kultur Nargile Cafe. And don’t forget to try Turkish coffee! It’s not the most tasty coffee but has a special flavour and once you get used to it it’s almost good haha.


• Enjoy a huge Turkish breakfast at Limonlu Bahçe. It’s a small hidden cafe in an inner garden, that gives you a relaxing break from the busy streets. Probably the most peaceful restaurant in Istanbul.


• Do shopping (not sure if Sam would agree with me here…better leaving your boyfriend in a bar rather than forcing him with you to stores).

I was hooked by all the nice clothes stores with super cheap prices. The clothes in Istanbul are so colourful and vibrant, like the city itself, so it was hard not to buy a lot of clothes (and a challenge to fit them all in the small backpack I had on this trip).


I’d visited the famous spots like Hagia Sophia and The Blue Mosque before in Istanbul, so we didn’t do any typical tourist sightseeing this time. But for the one interested in beautiful architecture and historical monuments there are surely a lot to do in this city.


I prefer to just walk around in the city, enjoy a coffee somewhere and explore all the nice neighbourhoods. Cafe and bar hopping is simply more my thing than the tourist sightseeing.

The old tram in Taksim
The nice Turkish breakfast we had at Limonlu Bahçe

From Istanbul we had a flight to Dalaman on the south coast, where we were planning on spending a week by the beach before heading north again by bus.


Ölüdeniz

The view from our hotel terrace

We stayed three days in this little beach town. It’s the perfect destination for chilling and enjoying some beach life. But very touristy. It turned out to be more of a British tourist hub with everything expressed in pounds, signs promoting English breakfast everywhere and all these typical fire- and magic shows in the bars in the evenings.

When Sam was working, I went on one of these party boat trips on my own. I’d booked a ticket with this pirate ship that I thought seemed quite cool, until I realised there were 10 similar pirate ships departing at the same time and following the exact same route. I ended up on a Turkish ship, where everyone else were local tourists and the the music was just trendy Turkish pop songs. It was an interesting tour tho, and I managed to find the only other ones speaking some English: a Turkish/Australian family who I spent most of the day with. The boat offered a foam party, dance floor, many swim breaks in clear blue water, and overpriced drinks. But all together it was a nice experience.


The very “unique” pirate ships
The nice Turkish/Australian family that took care of me the whole boat ride

Kaş


Kaş turned out to be my favourite place in Turkey. We found this little village by a coincidence when looking at Google maps, and decided to go there.


Kaş isn’t that known among western tourists, but many local Turkish people visit every year. It’s a town where everyone knows each other, returns many times per year and meet at the local beach club. This created a nice community vibe. This little town is tucked in between the mountains and the sea, with rough waves and clear blue water. The most clear blue water I’ve ever seen actually. Which made me enjoy every swim in the sea.


No need to say that it was a relieve to be able to leave the super touristy Ölüdeniz

and arrive in Kaş. The streets of Kaş are almost romantic: white and blue stone houses, small cafes and restaurants with views over the sea, small stone roads up and down the mountain. We stayed at a small family owned guesthouse called Meltam.





Most of the three days we stayed in Kaş we spent on one of the local beach clubs, belonging to a hotel called Sardynia. In Kaş there aren’t any sand beaches, but several nice beach clubs with stairs down from the cliffs to the water if you wanna swim. At Sardynia we straight away met a Ayham, a guy in his fifties who took it as his task to introduce us to everyone else he knew in town. We had a nice night out with him and his friends where they took us to the best bars. The night life in Kaş followed the general chill vibe: not crazy and loud but still fun and a great atmosphere everywhere.


New friends at the beach club

The second day in Kaş we went on a boat trip, pretty similar to the one I’d done in Ölüdeniz (but without the pirate theme). The boat took us around to small islands and historical ruins, and we got to swim in even more clear blue transparent waters.


Boat tour and island hopping

It was a hard decision to leave Kaş, that felt like the little paradise we’d just stumbled upon (imagine how much you can find just through Google maps nowadays! Everyone asked us how we found Kaş, and were surprised we had just looked it up on a map).


But with quite a limited time before we would have to start heading towards Georgia and our flight back home, we were also eager to see more parts of this diverse country.


Said and done, we took a minivan to Fethiye and from there to Antalya, where we were gonna spend two days and then take a night bus to Cappadoccia.


Antalya

View over the old town in Antalya

We stayed in Antalya for two days, before heading north. We had a bit of bad luck with the accommodation, where I had booked a very cheap guesthouse called The Red White House. Sam and I had argued a bit about the decision since he thought the place looked too cheap and had too bad reviews, while I felt like we should take the chance to once book something really cheap now when there were a lot of cheap options.


It took us ages to even find the place since it wasn’t on Google maps, and the location on Agoda was wrong. When we finally found it, the outer door was locked and the place looked a bit doughy (like the entrance to a crack house). There was no phone number or contact details to the place, but eventually a guy came and let us in. The room we got was dirty and the toilet probably hadn’t been cleaned in weeks. He promised us towels and an AC remote that we never got, and when we arrived back to the guesthouse in the late night it turned out the guy had been giving us the wrong code to the outer door. After an hour of trying we eventually find out the code by ourselves: it was 1234. Whatever you do in Antalya, at least make sure not to stay at The Red White House…


The temperature was hot and humid so we mainly had good food, walked around a bit in the evenings and smoked shisha and learnt to play the Turkish backgammon (called Tavla).


The Turkish “tavla”, backgammon

Nice places to visit were:


• The old town. Walk around, have a drink and enjoy the vibe in this beautiful historical part of town. In the evening it’s nice to see the Hadrian's Gate, the tower Antalya Saat Kulesi, the Hidirlik Tower Hıdırlık Kulesi (nice view from there) and the harbour.


The old town

• An absolute MUST is to have dinner at the restaurant Kaleiçi Meyhanesi in the old town. We went there two nights in a row and wished we would have had more time to try out all their dishes. We seriously even considered staying longer in Antalya just to be able to visit one more time.

I let the photos speak for themselves… the desserts where probably the best I’ve ever had.




These desserts were probably the best I’d ever had. Fried figs and nuts, cinnamon and ice cream.

I finally bought a pair of fake Birkenstock sandals as well before we left, for 70 lira (4€). All the fake brand-markets everywhere in Turkey are quite entertaining, you can get Nike, Adidas and Gucci for just a few euros… :)


The second day we took a night bus to Cappadoccia, that was as always in Turkey; comfy, on time and smooth. Travelling by bus in Turkey really is easy and convenient compared to many other countries.


Cappadoccia


The typical Cappadoccia scenery: hot air balloons in the sunrise

I’d been a bit reluctant to go to Cappadoccia since I knew it was one of the most famous areas for tourists to go to in Turkey, but eventually we ended up going for two days. We took a night bus from Antalya and arrived early morning around 6 am. We stayed in the small cave town Göreme, the main place to see the hot air balloons and do all kind of activities. The hotel we had booked named Gedak cave hotel was one of the cheaper ones in Göreme, 700 lira (40€) per night. We became good friends with the receptionist Mohammad from Afghanistan. He helped us around and we had many nice and interesting conversations together.


One of the main attractions in Göreme is to watch the hot air balloons, which we did at 5 am in the morning. It really is something special, seeing hundreds of hot air balloons up in the air at the same time. On the other hand I’d seen so many videos and pictures from Cappadoccia and the balloons so I almost expected more. I guess that’s the downside of social media nowadays, you’ve seen everything online before you experience it in real life so it becomes less impressive.


The early hike to watch the hot air balloons

Göreme by night

We ended up making a mistake by booking one of the ATV tours. Naive as we were we thought we go on small paths with a group of five other people, but eventually it turned out to be hundreds of other tourists driving ATVs in a long (and slow) line to all the view points, where the queue continued if you wanted to get a photo. It was really not our thing, and we eventually ended up leaving the tour in the middle.


My favourite thing we did in Cappadoccia was a spontaneous mountain bike tour together with Mohammad from our hotel. We rented bikes for a couple of hours and explored all the small nature trails, saw beautiful caves and stones and ate cherries and fresh apricots straight from trees. So there’s certainly less touristy things you can do in Cappadoccia too, to explore this interesting nature.


Biking on small trials together with Mohammad from the hotel

We found an old cave church

Sivas



We stayed in Sivas during one day on our way to the Black Sea coast, and arrived by train from Kayseri.


Since we’d only been travelling by bus in Turkey so far we were excited to finally try out the trains, but it turned out to be a mistake. Bus is clearly the best way to travel in Turkey, smooth, always on time and comfortable with wi-fi onboard etc.


The train was more than one hour late, and no one could tell us whether it was even gonna arrive at all or not. When it finally arrived the vagon where I had my seat was locked, and it seemed like no one sat on their actual seat. The train was quite fully booked so it wasn’t possible for me and Sam to get seats next to each other, and I had to book a seat in a cabin only for women since it turned out to not be allowed for a woman to book a seat next to a man, and vice verca. Turkey isn’t very conservative but with the train and bus seats they have a strict policy. However, eventually no one seemed to follow this policy anyway.


We had booked a cheap hotel in Sivas for just 260 lira (around 15€) and had one day to explore the city.


My best recommendations if you stop by Sivas for a short visit are:


• Breakfast in Pişi Kahvaltı & Cafe - their Turkish breakfast was insanely good and for just 80 lira per person (4€) you get unlimited food. It was a mix of cheeses, spreads, salad, egg, bread, gözleme, olives, you name it… and of course Turkish tea and coffee served in nice pots. The friendly staff would come and refill anything you wanted and give you these freshly fried donuts all the time. As always in Turkey the service is on top and everyone is always so friendly and helpful towards foreigners.


The big Turkish breakfast we had

• Visit the many beautiful mosques and old buildings. Sivas is full of beautiful old architecture and just strolling around and spotting them is nice. In some of the old mosques they have even built cafes and fountains where you can sit and drink a coffee in this historical environment which is really nice.




• Market hall. There are several markets full of spices, fruits and vegetables in all colours. Don’t forget to try the fresh apricots - so far they are the sweetest and most tasty ones I’d ever tried anywhere.

Eat cheap kebab. There are tons of cheap local kebab shops where you (at least at the time we were in Sivas) could get a kebab + Ayran (yoghurt drink) for 30 lira (1,5€).


• Visit the old cafe Hayal Köşesi. It’s 40 years old and makes you feel like you step back in history when you enter. The cafe is full of news articles and books on the walls and people drink tea and play the Turkish backgammon “tavla”.

We we super welcomed by the young guys working there who tried their best to talk to us in English. They served us Turkish coffee with small sweets as a gift. One of the guys even ended up driving us to the bus station in the evening.




In general all the people we met in Turkey were incredibly friendly and helpful, especially in Sivas. Even though we only stayed there for one day, this small town stayed in my mind.


In the night we got on a night bus from Sivas to the costal town Trabzon in the north.


The Black Sea coast and Ayder


From Trabzon we continued to a small mountain village called Ayder in the north, closer to the Georgian border, and stayed in a family owned guesthouse called Fora Pansyon.


The lunch we had at a nice rooftop restaurant in Trabzon before continuing to Ayder

By taking two small vans from Trabzon you could reach here in a couple of hours. The higher up in the mountains we got, the more cloudy and rainy it got. When we arrived in Ayder we couldn’t see much of the view anymore because of all the fog. We had been looking forward to all the mountain hikes we could do, but seemed like we had really bad luck with the weather.


The cozy guesthouse Fora on the mountain

Not much of a view from the guesthouse tho, due to the fog…

Despite the unsuccessful hiking weather we had a nice two days stay. We felt like home straight away, the owner Özer and his lovely mom welcomed us and the vibe was very social among the other guests too. Özers mom cooked really delicious home made food on an old fashion stove and we had dinner and breakfast at the pension two days in a row.


The homemade food we got at Fora

We also got to borrow warmer clothes when the weather was a bit colder than expected, and in general Özer was so helpful with anything we needed.


The traditional headscarf that women wear in Ayder. Özers mom made me try it and it looked quite cute right?


We also got to know the other guests staying there, a couple from Jordan, two guys from Berlin and a girl from Italy and her Turkish friend. It felt a bit like being on a camp together, stuck on this mountain in the rain and eating meals together.


The only hike we did in Ayder was our second day and the weather was very foggy and rainy, and the only van that could take us the remaining 10 km uphills to the beginning of the hiking trails eventually only left at 11.30 am. We walked for a couple of hours but couldn’t see anything at all due to the fog, and decided to turn around and enjoyed some hot chai and local home made rice pudding instead.



In the evening we enjoyed another home cooked dinner made by the nice women in the guesthouse, and played Uno and drank beers with the other guests half of the night which was nice. It’s always inspiring to meet other likeminded travellers, like Jannes and Niklas from Berlin who were heading towards Iran. They’d traveled a lot and it was really nice to get some good recommendations from them and hear their travel stories.


Still had a great time thanks to these people despite the rainy weather

Ayder was still a nice place to visit, and our guesthouse was cozy and homely, so I hope to be able to return for more hiking and better luck with the weather another time.


From Ayder we took a bus to Batumi in Georgia and hoped for better weather.


Georgia


Caucasus mountains in the north east of Georgia

Batumi

The border crossing from Turkey to Georgia by the coast was smooth and we arrived in Batumi late afternoon. We had time to walk around for a bit before taking a minivan to Kutaisi.


The old town area in Batumi is really nice, with a lot of street art and colourful old buildings. We found a small Ukrainian restaurant with only a Russian name called Як вдома, where we had food and wine. They had home made cheese cakes and as expected also really nice local wine. I had the Ukrainian pelmeni (like stuffed tortellini) with mushroom and potato and smetana (Russian crème fresh), my mouth still gets watery when I think about that dish.



The best cheesecake ever!

From the short time we spent in Batumi I already liked the vibe. It’s an interesting mix of old buildings with beautiful balconies, new modern skyscrapers and condo buildings with pools and sovietlike trashy big buildings. Another time I think it would be nice to spend some more time in this city exploring more of the interesting artsy streets.




Kutaisi

In the evening we took a minivan to Kutaisi, where we’d booked a guesthouse for 10€, called Doors. The guy working there was really helpful and reached out to me on WhatsApp straight after I made the booking, offered to help out with anything we needed. He and his girlfriend who managed the guesthouse also arranged private tours to the nearby waterfalls and caves. If we wouldn’t have planned to rent a car it seemed like a nice option.


Breakfast in Kutaisi, at cafe Mini Art

Our plan was to try to rent a car or motorbike in Kutaisi, and spend 3-4 days driving to the mountains or to some of the national parks nearby. It seemed to be harder than we thought though, and took us some time to find a car. We eventually found a guy who could rent us a car for 100 GEL per day (around 35€), which was the cheapest option we could find. The guy was a bit sketchy and we had to pick the car up at a random parking outside the city centre, and didn’t get any papers with the car, insurance, instructions or similar. We just had to hope we wouldn’t end up in any car accident.


At least the car itself was good, an automatic Kia that was running on gas which was very cheap in Georgia. We ended up paying just 45€ for the whole trip and we drove around 900km in four days.


Road tripping

The first day we drove a lot to make it closer to the Caucasus mountains which was our goal. We couldn’t make it all the way to Gudauri, one of the bigger towns in the Caucasus mountains, but stayed overnight by a roadside hotel on the way.


One of the impressive old monasteries we passed on the way - just one of hundreds that you’ll see when roadtripping in Georgia

Driving in Georgia is fairly easy and we didn’t experience any problems and didn’t get stuck in traffic jams. However, the condition of the roads are quite bad. It would definitely have been better to rent a jeep, but that would have been a lot more expensive. Many paved roads have big holes in them, are very bumpy or suddenly turn into a dirt road. Unfortunately our car was the opposite to a jeep and very low, so at times we had to go very slowly.


Before we stopped for the night at the hotel, we had dinner and wine at a small roadside restaurant called Gorda that was super cozy with small lights everywhere in the garden. They also offered us a free wine tasting (this is when I started realising that I’d come to heaven…).


Wine and dinner at Gorda

The next morning we continued the drive northwards, after I’d been going for an hour long morning walk. A dog accompanied me the whole way, like they often do in these hiking districts (it always feel safer when you have a dog with you).


A swing we found on the way. Can’t say I’ve ever been swinging with a better view than this

Some of the sceneries on the way

We headed towards the town Gudauri and from there our plan was to reach a very small little mountain village called Juta.


Juta



Probably you’ve never heard about this remote village in the Caucasus mountains in Georgia. Juta is one of the highest settlements (2200 m) in the region. And to us, this little village was like a little paradise, surrounded by beautiful sceneries everywhere you looked; high mountain peaks, green valleys and small wooden huts.



Juta is only accessible during the summer season, and most of the local villagers move away in the winter. Those few who stay are totally isolated when the snow comes.


Most of the villagers use horses to get around, and they live in peace with nature and animals. All the cows, horses and dogs walk free on the mountains, living their best life.



We drove to Juta on a bumpy dirt road, it required a bit of patience and a steady hand on the wheel - but look where it got us!



In Juta we’d booked a small hut that a 19-year old guy called Iggy had built himself. It was built on his grandparents backyard with a nice view over the mountains and I don’t think there is a more quiet and peaceful place than this one. We also got served a nice homemade breakfast by Iggy’s grandma the next morning, so we h got some energy for the upcoming hike.


Iggy’s hut

The hiking trails in Juta are probably the nicest ones I’ve hiked along ever, and the views are incredible. There’s a hiking trail you can do for two days if you bring a tent, and you’ll reach to another village on the other side of the mountains. We were satisfied enough to do a 3,5 hour hike, before we had to drive back along the dirt road towards Stepantsminda.


Some of the views from the hiking trail

Our biggest mistake was not to bring enough cash with us to Juta - which made us forced to return to bigger towns just after one night. There’s no ATM in the village and you can’t pay anything with card. Used to the cashlessness everywhere as we are, we didn’t think about this.

But we’ll definitely be back!


Stepantsminda

This is the furthest up north we got in Georgia before we had to turn back. Stepantsminda is only 15 km from the Russian border, and lots of trucks were passing by all the time when we were there, since that border was one of the only ones open due to the Russian war in Ukraine.


Sometimes the border closed for many days or even weeks, and hundreds of trucks would be parked in a long long row along the road, sometimes even for months, we found out. It seemed like a quite bad situation for the truck drivers, who often just had to live in their trucks for an uncertain time. Not to talk about how this was causing the already narrow mountain roads to get even narrower…


In Stepantsminda we had one of the best meals in Georgia, at a small local place called BeBa bar.


The delicious food we had at BeBa bar (and home made orange wine!)

We didn’t have time to do much more due to the rain and thunder that reached us, after days of trying to escape from it. Most of the next day we had to drive back in rain, but stopped on the way to stay in Gori, half way to Kutaisi.


Gori

Gori is another little historical town located in central Georgia. As in many other cities, it offered nice food and some monasteries and fortresses to check out.



We did a nice home stay slightly outside the town centre, where the local guy rented out just two rooms in the house his grandparents built. The rest of the house he and his kids and wife and parents lived in, and the cellar was for wine making. A nice addition to the stay was the wine tasting experience, where we got to taste six of his homemade wines for a small fee. It was very interesting to also get the chance to see how the wine was made in the cellar in deep holes in the stone floor - the same way it had been made throughout generations.




Another highlight was the breakfast we got the next morning (with homemade honey for the bread). As you can see, Georgia is a country where you’ll end up eating, drinking, eating, and eating…


Kutaisi for the second time

The last two days we spent in Kutaisi again, since we had to return the rental car and were flying from there. The guesthouses and hotels were all pretty cheap, we booked a small guesthouse called Lime Hill Hotel about 1km from the centre, and paid 50 GEL (under 20€).


The highlights of things we were doing our last two days were:


• Eating at Palaty restaurant. This place is definitely worth a visit just for it’s great atmosphere. The food was also really good, we came there for breakfast and had crepes and the traditional katchapuri (baked bread with molten cheese).



• Visiting Kutaisi market. Located in the middle of the old town, this market offered a wide range of interesting ingredients and foods; everything from dried and fresh fruits to wine, homemade honey and different kinds of traditional sweets. A perfect place to find nice small souvenirs, especially for us who only travel with hand luggage and sadly couldn’t bring any Georgian wines with us back home.





• Visiting the Bagrathi cathedral. We walked there to watch the sunset, the view from up the hill is really nice and the cathedral itself is impressive. It was reconstructed from ruins and only finished by 1990. The viewpoint from where you can see the whole city also offers a nice spot for picnic, or you can have a drink at the nearby bar.



• Playing with the street dogs. For a dog lover like me, it was a dream to always be approached by so many dogs wherever we walked. The street dogs in Kutaisi (and Georgia in general) seem to be well taken care of by locals and are in general vaccinated, and we never met any aggressive dogs.


Up by the cathedral we befriended two dogs who seemed to really enjoy getting some attention, so they decided to follow us when we walked back to the city centre. On the way a bunch of other stray dogs also followed and soon we had a whole pack of dogs with us. My biggest problem was that I only have two hands and couldn’t pet them all…haha. (Not to talk about the small puppies - it’s hard not to feel like adopting all of them and bring them home).





• Taking the old cable car up to the amusement park. This cable car had definitely seen it’s best days, and so had the amusement park. Luckily we survived both the rusty cable car and the fairy’s wheel, and didn’t dare to challenge the destiny with more rides in more of the attractions. However, a nice experience and view from the top of the hill.



• Drinking local wine. As everywhere else in Georgia, it’s easy to find ridiculously cheap and good wine everywhere in Kutaisi. We had nice wine in Papavero restaurant in the old town, that’s also a cozy place to sit at. The night before we also attended a wine tasting at Seppeoe wine bar, where they have a huge selection of different local wines. We got to try some of the more expensive ones, whereof the most expensive was around 250 GEL (70€) for a bottle. To be honest tho, all the wines we had in Georgia were so nice so I prefer having a glass for 5 GEL (~1,7€).



• Having dinner at Toma’s Wine Cellar. This was a really nice and unique experience that we found out about through a blog, but I would highly recommend.

Toma’s house is a bit outside the centre, and his mom cooks all the food with the seasonal ingredients, and Toma takes his guests around in the wine cellar for a private tour. The dinner was 50 GEL per person but including a whole litre of homemade wine (when we were there, sadly the red wine was finished so we only got white wine), and a shot of his homemade strong liquor.



Toma’s wine cellar

Not sure if we were more full from the food or drunk from the wine after this nice experience (maybe both).


From Kutaisi we took a flight back home passing by Gdańsk.


I’ll definitely look out for more cheap flights to Georgia in the future, since I feel like we didn’t really have enough time to explore everything that this country has to offer and would love to see more of it. There’s a local wine festival in Kutaisi every year in December and in Tiblisi in May, perhaps that will be my next visit.


A big highlight with Georgia is also the people, always friendly, hospitable and eager to help out in any way possible.


Any questions about Georgia? Don’t hesitate to reach out to me!👋

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